The magnificent
botanical garden, located in the proximity of Port-Louis, has
come to be known under various names, ranging from “Jardin de
Mon Plaisir”, to “Jardin des Plantes” or still, “Jardin Botanique
Royal”. Finally, in 1988, it has been renamed to “Sir Seewoosagur
Ramgoolam Botanical Garden”, in honour of the man who led the
country to independence and who once, was the Prime Minister
of Mauritius. Although this name is quite a recent one, it seems
to be scarcely used, even ignored by the visitors. The garden
is frequently known as “Jardin de Pamplemousses” (Garden of
Pamplemousses), which clearly originates from the adjoining
village.
The garden owes its origins to François Mahé de La Bourdonnais,
governor of Ile de France (ancient name of Mauritius island),
who bought the property at Mon Plaisir, and had his house built
and a vegetable garden created there. However, Pierre Poivre,
a predestined name, was the genuine and passionate creator.
When this botanist and explorer, once a seminarist, visited
Ile de France, he turned out to be a real “missionary of spices”.
18th century… Poivre is a young man having a keen sense for
adventure and he wants to ban the Dutch monopoly on the spices
market. He has decided to import the spices in the French colonies.
Consequently, he landed on the island with trunks full of seeds
and shrubs that scented the holds of his ship! He had chosen
them with great care during his voyages, or at times, the plants
were cleverly absconded at his own risk. As such, nutmeg trees,
clove trees, and pepper plants will gradually adapt to the climate
prevailing at “Jardin de Mon Plaisir”. Unfortunately, Fusée-Aublet,
a jealous horticulturist, sabotaged his cultures whenever Poivre
was not looking! Even though Poivre returned to France, disillusioned
from the experience, he did not admit defeat nonetheless, as
a great determination characterised this man who has seen worse.
As a matter of fact, he came back some ten years later, in 1767,
but this time, as the administrator of Bourbon Island (Réunion)
and Ile de France. Pierre Poivre was a one-armed person (during
a naval battle, a cannonball tore away his wrist and he had
to undergo an amputation), but his skill, his knowledge, his
tenacity and his experience helped him to overcome all obstacles.
He introduced numerous trees and spices from all over the world
in the Pamplemousses garden, whose names invited us on a worldwide
tour: the Caribbean’s laurel, China’s camphor tree, the Philippines
bread-root, or Cochin-China’s litchi… as well as many indigenous
species as possible. Pierre Poivre, a noble and kind gentleman
- besides, he was also against the ignominy of slavery - will
be the originator of the first laws on the protection of nature.
Together with his wife and daughters, he lived in the residence
at Mon Plaisir (now destroyed, but substituted for an equally
beautiful building, pompously named as “Château de Mon Plaisir”)
till he decided to return in France, in Lyon, where he died
in 1786. He was then sixty-seven years old.
His successor, Nicolas Céré, a botanist, tried his best to go
on with the works of Pierre Poivre. He dedicated his life and
fortune to enrich them with flowers and trees. Under such circumstances,
the garden came to be highly valued by the most famous naturalists
and is renowned worldwide today.
However, as from 1810, the British practically abandoned this
magnificent garden. Yet, in 1849, James Duncan picked it up
from abandon and brought back the garden’s original charm. He
introduced new species such as ferns, araucarias, orchids, and
bougainvilleas. The whole credit of planting numerous species
of palm trees should be attributed to him. Nowadays, the royal
palm, one of the varieties of the palm trees, adorns two magnificent
avenues of the garden.
Various botanists, horticulturists and landscape gardeners succeeded
him and carried on with what is known as a “work of art”, which
will enchant visitors in search of beauty, serenity and poetry.
We can only hope that they will not be disappointed of the effect
of mankind on the garden’s spirits in the future…
Pamplemousses, nowadays.
Behind the impressive whitish iron-wrought gate, La Bourdonnais
Avenue welcomes the visitors. Here, a huge baobab stands guard,
and then, we stepped into the “Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam” or
“Pamplemousses” Eden garden! On both sides of the avenue, a
range of huge latans covered with creepers and philodendrons,
an insight into the luxuriant vegetation of a tropical country,
gave us a majestic and grand welcome.
Through a small transversal lane, we came upon Poivre Avenue,
edged with gigantic royal palms, which seemed to be escorting
us. On our right, a bridge spanned the whispering Citron River.
We sat down in a small garden where trees coming from India
and China grew side by side: cinnamon tree, teak, the Indian
Almond tree, whose red wood is widely used by carpenters, and
the royal guava tree. Here, simply admiring the landscape is
not enough, we should feel and breathe in Nature itself! Even
the trees scented the air with a light fragrance of flowers,
fruits, spices…and the voyage went on…
A few steps further, in Epinay Avenue, we came across a thicket
of yellow bamboo cane originating from India. The young shoots
are used as vegetables and are consumed in most of Asia. Afterwards,
strange open, fan-shaped palm leaves, similar to peacocks fanning
their colourful tails, appeared at the intersection of Telfair
and Cossigny Avenue. We had discovered the Talipot palm trees,
adorned with gigantic leaves that could have easily measure
up to 3 metres. They blossom only once in their whole lifetime.
After 40 to 60 years, they offer a stunning view of a dazzling
inflorescence, with more than 50 millions little flowers, that
can be 6 metres above the tree and then, they die!
At the extreme end of Cossigny Avenue, we came upon the “Colonne
Liénard”, a beautiful white-marbled obelisk, where the names
of those who have greatly contributed to the prosperity of the
island through constant development of the island’s flora and
fauna are engraved. On one side of the marble shaft, a quotation
of Bernardin de St-Pierre can be read as thus: “The gift of
a useful plant is more precious to me than the discovery of
a gold mine, and a longer lasting monument than a pyramid”.
Finally, here was the water lilies pond that offered a spectacular
view of a fresh armful of white, blue or even pink flowers.
Unfortunately, they will die after a span of two days. The extraordinary
gigantism of these water lilies was surprising: the “Victoria
Amazonica” has a diameter of 1 to 2 metres! It is generally
said that it can carry the weight of a small child. Never try
it out though, for this version of nature’s fact can only be
felt with the eyes! Perhaps, we would have the chance to see
the exotic beauty of the Pink Torch Ginger, concealed in the
shadows of the surrounding foliage. Opposite the pond, Pierre
Poivre's bust seemed to be watching over the garden…
At the start of Pope Henessy Avenue, we kept admiring the white
or pale yellow flowers in the lotus pond. These flowers are
highly venerated by the Hindus. Their leaves, lying on the still
water, are “waterproof”.
In spite of our weary steps due to the heat prevailing, we continued
our journey, as our curiosity prompted us further into this
fairy tale landscape where we would not even be surprised to
come across a gentle elf. Suddenly, we caught a glimpse of the
Château de Mon Plaisir from afar, at the extreme end of the
park. This large structure, with a lengthy veranda, is not the
one that Mahé de La Bourdonnais had erected near the main gate.
The British have built this one in the middle of the 19th century
and today, it welcomes distinguished visitors who need to attend
official ceremonies in the island. Indira Gandhi, Princess Margarett,
François Mitterrand as well as many other famous and important
persons, had the unique privilege of planting “their tree” in
front of the Château.
We came back towards the interior of the garden, following Mon
Plaisir Avenue. After crossing a little bridge, we discovered
a gigantic age-old tree, known as the “sacred fig tree”. Then,
the “lake” came into view. It surrounds various islets that
are covered with luxuriant and dense vegetation. However, we
simply cannot leave without greeting the famous statue of Bernardin
de Saint-Pierre, who stirred great emotions in everyone with
his renowned novel of Paul and Virginie. Their imaginary yet
romantic tomb is known to be at the end of avenue, which is
obviously named after them. In fact, it is only a pedestal,
which seemingly should have welcomed the statue of the two lovers
but instead, remained empty ever since.
It’s only near the entrance gate that we woke up to reality
all of a sudden. We could have been on a guided tour through
the garden, but it will be for a next time! Today, we have preferred
to wander and dream of the magic of the place, like Alice in
Wonderland…
Extract from www.mysterra.org
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